I'd like say THANKS to all the locals in Hawaii who were nothing but warm and friendly, every place we surfed.
I put together this video which typifies the Aloha on the water. The video was taken by a local surfer girl who offered to shoot video of us. She was not the only local to make this offer.
We were not the only people surfing with cameras. I saw the Gopro, Sanyos (2) and Olympus cameras in use at various breaks.
At no time did we ever surf the ideal spot at any break. We always avoided the pack of surfers dueling for the biggest and best waves. We surfed off to the side, or more inside, taking the scraps with the more mellow locals doing likewise. It was a good vibe everywhere we surfed.
SUPs seemed to be everywhere. Often you'd see them miles out, on distance reefs all by themselves. It was a beautiful thing to see. While surfing Flat Island in Kailua, we saw a lone SUP surfer about 1 mile beyond the island surfing all alone.
In this video, Jacky is wearing every piece of rubber we had in the van because it was freezing cold. Our coldest day of the vacation. Probably only 69-70°F.
Watch with the sound on.
Surfing and Hollywood.
8 hours ago