I took the raceboard for a downwinder today. The wind was blowing hard, then died 5 minutes into my run. Crap! I need wind to catch runners!
Anyway, when I finally came ashore, I caught a tiny piece of swell (not a breaking wave) and it took off like a missile. I was going so fast, I figured I had no chance to stop gracefully. I ripped my leash off while screaming toward the beach and bailed. The board flew up the beach without me. My need to spaz out was prompted by the urgency to get in while I could. The sets were huge today. I came ashore during a brief break in the sets.
Mentawai Surf Trip Advise
12 hours ago