We finally got back in the surf tonight and both of us kooked out. Wow, are we rusty not having surfed in awhile. For me it's 20 minutes surfing in the last 2 1/2 weeks. Waves were head high, choppy, and a little windy. We parked the truck for quick 1 mile down wind surf session, but aborted after only a 1/2 mile. We feel like kooks.
My chest has a burning fire right in the middle after this session. The ribs feel fine. I guess where everything attaches in the middle, it still needs more heeling.
The thrusters felt great. FAST and loose!
The paddle felt bad at 9" over my head. Great for upright cruising, but powerless and terrible when going for a wave. I'll test 8" over my head next session. If that doesn't thrill me, we'll be back were we started at 7" over.
Bruce Brown has died.
4 hours ago